Surfing for the First Time! / Bucket List Trip

Bali – 2019

Life’s a Wave, Catch it!

– Anon.

Wow! I am struggling to find the words to describe how amazing my week was! On Monday the 6th of May, Slightly nervous and scared of what laid ahead of me I boarded a short flight to Bali Indonesia. Again, like previously, I was on my own for this trip. This trip was different though than my previous ones, this is one of my new years resolutions trip of the year! I was going to learn how to surf!

Arrived in Bali I safely made it through immigration and found my driver to Lapoint Surf Camp in Canggu. Curious and not sure what to expect, I asked the driver a little about the camp and was a little shocked when he told me there would be around 60 people for the week. I was expecting a maximum of maybe 20, whoops.

like a fish in water 🙂

After a long 1,5 hours of driving through Indonesian traffic, we finally made it to the camp. Immediately I was greeted with big smiles and showed to my room. Very Scandinavian and clean looking. The camp has two pools, a common area, with big field and volleyball field, a “gym” and 3 dorm housing facilities. I changed into a pair of shorts and after giving myself a little pep talk, went outside and started talking to people. I was immediately accepted by the three girls I sat down at the pool with and not long after another one joined us. Everyone seemed to be in my age and most us travelled alone or with their best friend. I was also a little relieved that everyone seemed to be level 1 in surfing, like myself.

The camp focuses on surfing – duh, it’s a surf camp. 5 times a week for two hours, everyone goes surfing. Two times a week, we have rest days on which we can either chill at the pool or go on little trips. Tuesday morning at 6:30am I had my first ever surf lesson! We drove to one of the beaches close to the camp and started off with small white waves along the beach, just to learn the basics. Surfing sure looks a lot easier than it is! Or maybe I am just not the most talented surfer, haha.

On the second day we started surfing reef break waves, which are a lot easier to surf in my opinion. We brought all of our boards onto a little boat and drove out to the bigger waves. There we jumped off into the “cold” ocean and paddled out behind the waves, where we lined up like penguins on our boards waiting for our turn. Always three at a time, we paddle to our instructors and when the wave was right, with a little push, tried to catch a wave. Depending on how good we were, paddling back became quite the workout. I was still struggling quite a bit, but I enjoyed it a lot! Even if I didn’t catch a single proper wave, I loved just laying on my board in the water. Our long car rides became our new favourite napping spots, because after two hours of surf classes everyone was pooped!

On day three I was given a bigger board to help me surf. Today went even better and I actually almost stood on my board. Everyone else in my team was surfing waves from day one, but hey we don’t judge a slow learner. I was improving that is what mattered!

Catching a wave

So I had almost mastered the basics of surfing, when day four rolled around. Let me tell you day four wasn’t pretty. On Saturday the waves were bigger than all week and the wind created current and choppy waters. Nevertheless we hoped on our boards and paddled out. Right away, we were struggling. People were thrown off their boards or could barley paddle out in the first place because of the choppy water and big waves. When we finally did make it out, half the group was so sea sick they caught one wave and headed back to the boat. You could tell everyone wasn’t feeling very confident in the water and even the best of us, couldn’t catch a wave. Even I who practically grew up in water and really am not scared of it, didn’t feel confident in the waters. I caught two waves in total, the first one basically undressed me when I fell off my board and the second one almost drowned me. After my second wave I got stuck in a wave of waves and the current was pulling me further into the waves as well. I was so relieved and done, that when I finally made it out, I just wanted to go back to the boat. The drift back to the boat is a story on its own. Let’s just say, overall Saturday was not a good day!

looks pretty vintage to me 🙂

On the fifth and last day, half the group didn’t want to surf because of how bad yesterday had gone. And I am not going to lie, I really was thinking about not going either, but thankfully ended up going anyways. Thanks Devina 😉 We had arrived at the surf school and the conditions looked the same. Quite terrified I paddled out only to find the channel next to the waves pretty calm. The waves were still the same size but because there was no wind, the water was otherwise calm. I think today had to be my favourite day! I was the most confident and GUYS I ACTUALLY RODE A PROPER WAVE!!! I know why people do this now! The feeling you get when you finally catch a wave and ride it! Man it is the best thing ever! I was so thankful that I went even though I was scared in the morning! Let this be a lesson to you guys, when you’re scared and you’re not sure wether you should do something, then be brave and do it anyways! It might turn out to be the best day of the week and you’d never know it!

Almost got it.

The camp wasn’t just surfing, we did plenty of different activities and little trips around Canggu. When we weren’t playing games or chilling at the pool, we were competing in beer pong competitions, watching the sunset, cleaning the beaches, exploring Bali or dancing our hearts out at night! I could’ve honestly not asked for a better trip and people! Everyone was so kind and funny and although most us didn’t know each other before Monday by the end of the week, we were almost a small family. It’s funny how much strangers can mean you after just 7 days! Life’s a funny thing. I was so happy in the 7 days i stayed here at Lapoint, that I almost extended my trip to another week on the spot, but you know all good things must come to an end and responsibilities are calling us back to reality.

On Sunday, we had a volleyball tournament and the Lapoint camp olympics, which are a bunch of drinking games, as a goodbye day. Everyone joined and had a blast. Later that night, we all headed to a bar at the beach and danced until we could’t feel our legs anymore, picked up a hot slice of pizza on the way home and ended the night we a talk by the pool. By the time I made it to bed it was around 5:30 in the morning. At 10am I left for the airport, still a little tipsy and very sleep deprived. Let this be a lesson to you guys, travelling with just three hours of sleep by yourself is never a good idea 🙂 Eventually late at night, I made it back home. That night I fell asleep with a memory filled heart and truly happy.